
Longboard Skate
Sidewalk Surfing..Longboard Skateboarding
Info Generali:
DIMENSIONI:
Le tavole cosidette “longboard” per essere considerate tali vanno da 37″ (pollici) equivalenti a 1 metro circa fino a 72″ (pollici), equivalenti a 182 cm circa.
SHAPE:
Anche gli shape delle tavole longboard possono variare in base all’utilizzo. PIù o meno come nel surfing. Tavole con pin tail accentuati sono più utili nello slalom e nel carving puro. Tavole più classiche e lunghe vanno bene in discesa e per il puro sidewalk surfing, noseriding e cross step.
I MATERIALI:
Il materiale più usato nella costruzione dei longskate è il legno, massiccio oppure meglio ancora se multistrato; poi ci sono le fibre plastiche, il carbonio, l’alluminio e altre combinazioni di materiali. Ultimamente l’industria dello skateboarding ha introdotto una novità nei materiali da costruzione degli skate: il Bamboo. Il bamboo ha eccelenti e superiori doti di leggerezza e flessibilità. Oltretutto essendo facilmente reperibile, poichè cresce molto più in fretta degli alberi, è un ottima alternativa ecologica e sostenibile rispetto al classico legno.
RUOTE – (WHEELS):
Devono essere grandi e abbastanza morbide. Il diametro più usato, nei longskate, è circa 65/70 mm. Diverse durezze nelle ruote possono essere scelte in base all’utilizzo della tavola stessa (carving, bombing, sidewalk surfing). Una durezza buona per discesa è di 78a. Per slide è meglio una durezza di almeno 80a.
I CARRELLI – (TRUCKS):
Sono molto importanti perchè consentono alla tavola di curvare e allo stesso tempo garantirne la stabilità, soprattutto nello skate da discesa. Esistono sono vari tipi di trucks e di diverse qualità. Per longskate le misure più adatte sono dai 150 ai 200 mm di larghezza. Diversi tipi di utilizzo (slalom o discesa) necessitano anche di diverse soluzioni di carrelli e della loro relativa stabilità (maggiore per il downhill) e reattività nel movimento (maggiore per lo slalom). A prescindere dal tipo di carrello utilizzato o dal marchio. I trucks possono essere comunque regolati in base al loro utilizzo, stringendo o allargando la vite centrale degli stessi.
CUSCINETTI (BEARINGS):
Aumentano la capacità di “ruotare” delle ruote, influendo sull’attrito delle stesse. La scorrevolezza dei Cuscinetti si misura in ABEC (1,2,3,4 etc). A maggiore scorrevolezza dei Cuscinetti, normalmente corrisponde un maggiore prezzo. In discesa, dei bearing ABEC da 4 a 7 sono ottimali. Un ABEC medio da 5 va bene per la maggior parte di utilizzo dello skateboard
DISTANZIATORI (RISERS):
Spessori di vari materiali (urethano, gomma, plastica, legno) e di differenti altezze inserite tra i trucks e la tavola. Aumentano la distanza tra trucks e tavola per impedire alle ruote di toccarla inclinandosi in curva. Se angolati (dai 5° agli 11°) modificano l’angolo di curva e la stabilità della tavola.
GRIP:
Per non scivolare e fare presa sulla tavola. In vari modelli, neri, trasparenti e colorati.
BUSHINGS:
Sono le parti in gomma all’interno del trucks che si misurano in durezza e solitamente sono costruiti con uretano, lo stesso materiale delle ruote. Bushing più duri si usano per downhill, velocità, poichè accentuano la stabilità del truck. Bushing più morbidi vengono scelti per maggiore manovrabilità, quindi adatti per carving and sliding.
Il longboard Skateboarding può convenzionalmente essere diviso in queste discipline: Sliding, Downhill, Bombing, Carving e Commuting; ma può essere più semplicemente usato come mezzo di locomozione ecologico o come allenamento per altre discipline.
Il longboard Skateboarding è anche un ideale e naturale allenamento per surfers e snowboarders poichè i movimenti e gli equilibri sono molto simili.
GENERAL INFO:
LONGSKATE INFO > ENGLISH:
Equipment
Longboard equipment is very similar to skateboard equipment. It is most common for longboarders to wear gloves and a helmet. Even though longboarding involves great risk to one’s head most longboarders do not wear helmets. Wrist, elbow and knee protection are also recommended. For an introduction to skateboard equipment in general, see Skateboard.
Most longboards measure between 90 and 150 cm (35.4-59 inches). Longer boards are rare because the longer board requires more room to maneuver. There are several different shapes of longboards including: pintails, flat nose riders, and boards shaped like a longer shortboard. Pintails permit looser trucks and larger diameter wheels better suited for carving or a “surfy” feel. Mid-length boards, 94-127 cm (37-50 inches) are the most versatile.
Decks
Longboard decks are made of shaped wood or composite materials, designed to balance properties of weight, stiffness, flex, and twist, while offering a secure stance, and accommodating the height and weight of the rider. The simplest decks are made from 7 to 10 plys of 1/16″ thick birch or maple. These woods are glued together, and pressed into the desired shape with a vacuum, hydraulic, or manual press. More complex decks include the use of fiberglass and carbon fiber for decreased weight and increased stiffness, solid hardwoods for stiffness and aesthetics, foam cores for rigidity and light weight, and even exotic woods, like bamboo, for lesser weight and increased flex.
Decks are often given curvature that enhances their use. A board that is bent up in the center (when viewed from the side), is said to have camber, while a board that bends down in the center is said to have rocker. Camber makes a board ‘bouncier’ which is a good quality for some styles. Rocker allows a lower center of gravity, and a sensation of being ‘cradled’ by the deck during riding similar to the rocker in a surfboard. Decks may also be curved up at the edges (when viewed down the long axis), which is called concave. Concave bends add stiffness, leverage, and allow the rider to feel the edge of the deck without looking. Other bends, such as a bend up at the tail or nose (kicktails) are common on more specialized decks.
Many people have explored outside the realm of brand name equipment and find making their own decks as highly beneficial. A great variation that some riders enjoy is in the covering over the top of the deck. Some decks will have grip tape, basically a sheet of sandpaper covering the deck itself. Some decks are covered with sand and a liquid fiberglass that makes the deck extremely rough and easy to grip. Many riders enjoy adding their personal touch to their boards, often painting or carving in their own artwork straight on the deck. Others also make their own decks for the benefit of having the exact flex and shape from their board that would cost much more money if made custom. They have also come up with alternative, cheaper and easier ways to create various types of boards. For instance, many racing-style speedboards feature a deck that drops down to cradle the rider and to give more stability. in order to lower a rider’s center of gravity, a home-made speedboard will usually have its trucks mounted to the top of the deck, with the axle and bushing pushed through a hole drilled in the deck. Although it doesn’t look as “cool” as a drop deck, it offers the same feel. Drop-through trucks are also good for cruisers when the board isn’t so long that it will bottom out when it turns. The lowered board makes it more comfortable for a rider to push around town.
Building Decks
Many Longboarders like to build their own decks as a way to get exactly what they want out of the board or just to “get closer” to them. There are many very complicated methods to do this, using presses, fiberglass, carbon fiber, and even foam cores, and they can all be found on Toothless, along with basic board building instructions. The basic method includes making a template to get the shape you want, using two sheets of Baltic Birch or Maple plywood, gluing them together, and adding weights to the board while the glue dries in order to create the right flex and camber. Toothless also shows the proper ways to round edges, paint and sand your new longboard.
Wheel types
Longboards are usually fitted with polyurethane wheels between 60mm and 100mm, that are available in various durometers. A larger wheel provides a higher top speed compared to a smaller wheel, while the latter accelerates more quickly. A larger wheel will also be able to ride better on rougher surfaces. The durometer is typically in the 75a to 95a range. Typical shortboard wheels are much harder, about 98a. Some softer wheels will have inserts called “cores,” made of a harder material to retain the bearings’ position relative to the wheel and axle. However, cores are usually made of plastic, and because of this they are prone to cracking. Soft wheels are more likely to have a good grip with the ground, whereas hard wheels will slide easier. However, it is important to note that the use of soft wheels on hills may lead to your wheels chunking and cracking.
Longboard wheels also come in many different shapes to suit the different disciplines. Wheel size may be a concern due to the type of deck and hardware installed on the longboard. As the longboard is turned, the deck may touch the wheels if the trucks are not far enough from the deck. This is known as wheelbite and can stop the longboard quickly, causing the rider to be thrown off the board. This problem usually occurs with larger wheels, as they are more likely to hit the deck. There are several ways of solving this problem, wheel cut outs on the deck let the board turn and the cut out sections of the deck are no longer there to hit the wheels. Increasing the distance from the trucks to the deck using riser pads can also stop this problem, as the deck no longer gets low enough to touch the wheels.
Most companies manufacture their own wheels, and they generally are standard in their shape, size, and quality. Such wheels are usually very reasonably priced ($20-$50). But the company that is most recognized for specializing in wheel design is Abec 11. Abec 11 wheels are generally pricier than most wheels ($25-$90).
Bearings
There are many different choices of bearings for a longboard. The bearings sit inside of the wheel, and spin on the truck axles. Most bearings are made of steel, although those of the highest quality are made of ceramic. Steel ball bearings are mainstream bearings that are in widespread use, and readily available in skateshops and online distributors. Steel ball bearings are meant for the average skateboarder. Ceramic bearings are meant for the riders who have more stringent demands. They cost much more than steel ball bearings, but have less friction. The advantages for ceramic ball bearings include a smoother roll (if kept clean), and a lighter weight as compared to steel. Their thermal resistance makes them ideal for high speed downhill runs. Two of the main materials used in manufacturing of the ceramic balls is ceramic Cerbec® silicon nitride, and ceramic Zirconium Oxide.
Trucks
There are several different types of longboard trucks, differing from shortboard trucks in many ways. The primary difference is that the hangers are often wider to accommodate the different sized decks, with 150mm and 180mm being two of the most common widths. There are also different longboard trucks for different disciplines, as well as all-purpose trucks. Many trucks are equipped with special features, such as inverted kingpins, as well as spring-loaded trucks, and variable tilt designs. Trucks designed for maneuverability will have a softer urethane bushing or spring, which allow the truck to turn with ease. A downhill-type truck will usually have a harder bushing or spring to stabilize the board at high speeds. Urethane bushings are also rated on the durometer scale; the harder the bushing, the harder it is to turn the truck. Bushings can be replaced and changed, and are generally very cheap ($2-$10). All trucks have different turning angles. This is known as the truck’s geometry. The geometry of the trucks affects how much the board will turn. The geometry can be adjusted through the use of angled risers or “wedges,” which are mounted between the deck and the truck’s baseplate. The turning angle will increase if the trucks are angled toward the outside of the deck. If the trucks are angled to the inside of the deck, turning angle will decrease, which can improve stability. Randal R-II trucks come stock at 50 degrees on the hangers. This is a typical angle for general purpose trucks as it allows the board to turn well at a variety of speeds. Randal R-I Downhill style trucks are more stable, and have a turning angle of 35 degrees which is better suited to high speed skating. Slalom boards will use a quick turning truck in the front paired with a stable truck in the rear, to allow for better traction. Another type of truck, unique to longboards, is the torsion truck. Torsion trucks operate differently from standard trucks in that they twist a urethane bushing or metal spring rather than using two compression bushings to return the truck to a straight position. Revenge torsion trucks have a locking mechanism that prevents wheel bite when the truck hangers turn too far. The Original S-Series torsion truck does not have a stop but functions instead on the belief that the deck should be designed around the trucks (to avoid wheel bite). The lack of a stop allows Original trucks to lean over further and turn tighter, although compatible deck selection is limited. Riders who have experience on conventional, non-torsion truck, designs may have stability issues when bombing on torsion based trucks, however with practice torsion truck based setups can easily handle bombing runs of 30-35 mph (fast enough for all but the most advanced riders).
DROP THOUGH TRUCKS
Drop-though decks are the future of downhill riding. A lower centre of gravity on a skateboard is good for a lot of reasons:
Footbraking and pushing is easier becuase you don’t have to bend your “board leg” as much to get your pushing/braking foor on the floor
It makes the board more stable at speed – so fewer speed wobbles and faster skating!
It’s easier and more predictable to slide the board sideways mid carve and slide. Becuase the board is so low, you’re able to get your weight behind the wheels rather than over the top of them as you are on a conventioanl setup. So you’re able to exert much more sideways force on the wheels, and control it way better. Result – you can throw down super deep carves, making it easier, safer and quicker to stop from crazy speeds. Oh yeah and standup powerslides feel quite cool as well…
Because it’s more stable you can run your trucks as loose or looser than a higher setup – so the board is really stable but still super turny.
Some people don’t like the look, but on a pintail or race deck where you don’t stand on the trucks anyway it’s a winner every time. If you bomb or carve hills or cruise the mellow flats you need to ride one of these decks…
How to Clean Bearings
Skate bearings generally last a long time and require little maintenance. If you ride them in the rain or through some puddles then it might be a good idea afterwards to give them a strip and regrease just to stop them rusting too fast. Many people keep an old knackered set of bearings specifically for sliding and skating in the rain. Saves you rusting up those brand new bearings you just got for your speed board!
Taking the bearings out:

Take the nut off the axle and slide the wheel along the axle so that the innermost bearing is just on the edge of the axle. Using the same kind of motion as you would to open a bottle of beer, prise the bearing out of the wheel. Flip the wheel over and repeat.
Taking the bearings apart:

Once you’ve got your bearings out of your wheels, you need to get inside the cartridges. If you’re lucky your bearings will only have a single shield, but most likely you’ll have to take one of the shields off so you can get to the balls and cage. With a rubber shielded bearing this is easy – just prize one shield off with a small screwdriver. Unless you are VERY careful you’re probably going to damage the shield taking it off – but that’s ok, you only really need one on each bearing. Metal-shielded bearings have a “C” clip round the outside of the race that you’ll need to take off. On some bearings it is possible to remove the balls and cage from the race entirely for individual cleaning – but unless you really have nothing better to do it’s not really worth it.
Cleaning:

Next you need to get all the old crap and grease out of your bearing races. Avoid using WD40 – the best bet is to use methylated spirit or just soak the bearings in some solvent or alcohol. Lemon juice works well too! Soak your bearings in your chosen liquid try putting the bearings in a jam jar and shake the bejeezus out of them for about 2 minutes, then rinse them with some more clean solvent.
Regreasing:

Dry them off (hair dryers are handy here) relube them with a touch of oil or grease. You don’t need much lube in there so don’t go too crazy! The thinner your lube, the faster your bearings will spin, but the more prone to destruction they will be. Oil makes your bearings mega fast, but if any crap at all gets in there your bearings will be toast. Plus oil has a nasty tendency to spin out of the bearing at speed leaving your bearings without any lubricant, which leads to overheating bearings and melting wheels. Not cool… but maybe worth looking at if you really like cleaning bearings. On the other end of the spectrum is medium grease like the white stuff you can get at a bike shop. If you use this your bearings will be much more resistant to crap and should last a lot longer, especially if you ride in the rain a lot – but the flip side is that they’ll spin slower. Really your best bet is a skateboard bearing specific lubes like Powell Speed cream or similar light grease.
When you’re done they should look like this – put them back in your board and go for a skate!

LONGBOARD SKATE BASICS:
…Skate something that feels and behaves like a snowboard or a surfboard
There can be only one board…the Lush Samba has a dropped deck and 3dm Avalon wheels resulting in a very loose ride. Edge control is an important part of riding this board. The Avalon wheels are nice and grippy, but when you dig that rail hard into the turn, you can feel the wheels scrabble for grip as the back slides out. With a little imagination, you’ll be throwing buckets of powder in every carve. If you like your speed carving it’s all about the drop-through Kilima.
…Carve up a hill with skill and style
For mellow cruising and soulful hill carving the ideal choice is a classic 40″+ pintail shape. The Mako, Bahari, Makonga and Kuni and Kisiwa all make for awesome hill riding. Wide trucks and soft wheels keep you stable and fast over almost any surface. For the ultimate ride consider a drop through board such as the Kilima. With the trucks mounted through the board the ride height is as low and as stable as possible making it fast and very manoeuvrable.
…Send my wheels into screeching, sideways, technical slides
Sliding is a growing form of longboarding and allows for impressive tricks and progressive fun. Boards can range from the 33″ globe to the 58″ Kisiwa – but most folk prefer the Globe series. The shorter the wheelbase, the snappier the slide and the faster the rotation. Big boards create slow, graceful slides, which are harder to initiate but easier to control. Concave keeps you locked into the deck and kick-tails aid the more technical and impressive slides. The harder the wheel, the easier the slide. Wheel durometers around and above 90a are ideal.
Commute to work/college/uni through the rush hour traffic
The ideal board will be small, light and manoeuvrable. A kick tail isn’t necessary but it can give you something to rest your foot on and allows you to flick the board around the walkers and the talkers as you cruise down the high street. The Tula, Makonga, S-Flex and Kuni make for good commuters. Wheels should be soft (around 80a) and above 62mm to keep you rolling over the cracks.
…Turn an empty car park into a soulful boardwalking play ground
For longboard surf style manoeuvres, big, wide boards are ideal. Something like the Kisiwa is the ideal tool for practicing your hang tens, spinners and cross-stepping when the surf is flat or onshore.
Even for the landlocked surfer at heart, this board can transform an empty car park to 3 foot Malibu with a little imagination. The wide design gives you plenty of room to move around and the kick-tail adds to the manoeuvrability. Wide, shallow angled trucks such as Holeys are ideal for tight turns and wheels should be big and soft to give the maximum effortless glide.
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